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Ladakh

Nubra Valley

Nubra is reached from Leh over Khardung La at about 5,300 metres and sits lower than Leh, around 3,050 metres, which makes it a comfortable night. Hunder has cold desert dunes and double-humped camels; Diskit has the monastery and the standing Maitreya. Two days is standard.

Altitude
About 3,050 m at Hunder
Access
Over Khardung La, about 5,300 m
Best time
May to September
Days needed
2
Known for
Hunder dunes, Bactrian camels, Diskit monastery

Crossing Khardung La

The pass is the high point of the day and not a place to linger — fifteen or twenty minutes for photographs is plenty at 5,300 m. The descent into Nubra is long and drops well below Leh, which is why most people sleep better in Nubra than they did on their first night in Leh.

Hunder and Diskit

Hunder’s dunes sit between the Shyok river and the mountains, with Bactrian camels that are the remnant of the Central Asian caravan trade. Diskit holds the monastery above the valley and the 32-metre Maitreya statue facing the Shyok.

Turtuk

A further two hours north-west, close to the line of control and only opened to visitors in 2010. Balti culture, apricot orchards and a genuinely different feel from the rest of Ladakh. It needs an extra night to be worth the drive.

Questions people ask

Do you need a permit for Nubra Valley?

Yes. Nubra is a protected area and needs an inner line permit, arranged in Leh. Tour operators normally handle this; carry photocopies, as they are checked at more than one point.

Is Nubra colder than Leh?

Usually milder at night, because Hunder sits several hundred metres lower than Leh. The pass in between is the cold part of the day, not the destination.

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